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RIG & SAILS Best Rigging Reference Book: Brian Toss's The Complete Rigger's Apprentice (30 Apr 09 CSYO Post) I painted my mast
10 years ago (1998). Here are a few bits of advice. (12 Nov 2009 CSYO Post) The holes
through the mast and partners with the allthread, nuts and washers are
original. The arrangement is so that the middle of the cabintop has vertical
support to prevent flexing. It also helps hold the mast in fore and aft
column. It is not designed to hold the mast in athwartships column-the
blocking does that. The original blocking was cut to fit wood. It doesn't
keep the mast from falling out of an inverted boat.
(27 Dec 09 CSYO Post) Mast partner seal project is done and doesn't
appear to leak. Sherry made a new Sunbrella cover to keep the sun off the
top layer of Silicone. December 2012 Update: We are happy with the end result, and it has kept us leak-free for the last 3 years. We have 6 sheaves in the end of the boom to
handle the outhaul and 3 reefing lines with two spares. Our outhaul comes
out the forward side of the boom to a cleat. The three reefing lines run
inside the boom and then out under the forward end of the boom through line
stoppers to a self tailing winch on the back of the mast. The staysail is a very important part of your
sail inventory. And you should have it set up so that you can use it both up
and down wind. Topica Post 10/31/08. In the Fla Keys I
had many near heart attacks passing under the Channel 5 and Moser Channel
bridges while doing Boy Scout charters. We often heeled the boat with all
hands to one side or the other just to 'make sure' and to the great delight
of the scouts. I also removed all the equipment at the top of the mast. Both
those bridges were near 65' at MHW with no chop. During spring high tides,
however, it was some times too close to call, so a couple of times we ran
all the way to Key West down the North side of the Keys. CSY Post 9 Aug 09 The number 65' is
just a round number for the tall mast. It was designed a bit shorter to
allow the boat to get under the 65' Inland Waterway bridges. Like some others, we also have rigged internal halyards with rope clutches on our tall Kenyon spar. We think it is a much better arrangement than the original and much safer if you are using the halyard and windless to go up your mast. It also will more than double halyard life, especially if you end for end your halyards periodically and use sacrificials while in port for more than a couple of weeks. Below are several other worthwhile modifications that can be made to the tall rig mast:
Roller Furling Code Zero Light Air Sail Since we have arrived in the light-air tropics, and diesel fuel has gone up over $4/gallon, we decided we needed a light air sail. We have recently purchased and installed a new Code Zero sail with a Facnor Continuous Furler. After getting quotes from various sailmakers, we again went with Super Sailmakers in Ft. Lauderdale. We talked at length with Peter Grimm and told him what we were looking for. Here is what we ended up with. - 988 Sq Ft (Luff
55.83', Leech 52.23', Foot 30.97') We did a few measurements for them (by then the boat was in Panama) and they shipped the finished sail to us in Panama via Marine Warehouse. It fit perfectly and will last us for many thousands of miles of light air sailing. When not using it, it is lowered and coiled into the bag, and completely detached from the bow, including the Facnor furler. We use the spinnaker block at the top of the mast (be sure your block is a strong beefy block, because we have blown out 2 cheap plastic blocks already, due to the large sail area). A roller furling Code 0 sail is a specialty sail optimized for upwind light air sailing (5-12 knots apparent). But it will also work well reaching and off the wind. We wanted to be sure we could go both up and down wind and thus were willing to give up a little down wind efficiency, that a fuller cut lighter spinnaker sail has, in order to do that. It is made of heavier and different cloth than a traditional spinnaker made of rip stop nylon. There are more expensive cloths made for this purpose, like Contender's Stormlite or Mylar, but we chose a light weight Dacron based on it being nearly as effective, comparatively UV resistant and at significantly less cost. Some good reading material includes the
following, all from the May 2005 Cruising World: Here are the specifications: Dimensions:
Sail area maximized to
move boat in light air 10 knots apparent and below, while still able to furl
in a hurry. For our
I of
57.00' and J of 20.25' the Luff
is 55.83', leech is 52.23', and foot is 30.97'. Total square footage
is 988. Based on having the foot of the
sail just clear the bow rail to prevent chafe we could have added another 2'
to the luff. Cloth: 4.18 oz Challenge Performance Cruise cloth. This is a great cloth for the job as it has some give like nylon which helps keep it from slatting too much or bouncing around in choppy conditions. It also has much better strength, chafe/tear resistance and UV resistance than nylon Stitching: It will have two rows of three step stitching which is appropriate over over kill for this type of sail. Corner details: The head, tack and clew have beefy welded external stainless steel O rings suitable for the Facnor furler and 2 rows of three step corner patches commensurate to the sail's task. The clew also has four 1" nylon webbing straps sewn on to spread the ring load onto the patch and a Doyle 'Clew Trimline' strip of colored cloth attached on both sides to indicate the proper trim angle line up. Edges: The luff rope is made of doubled 3/8" Vectran to reduce stretch and inhibit twist when the halyard is tight and the boat is going up wind. It is sewn into the luff in two parallel strands beside each other from the tack ring up through the head ring and back down. There are leech and foot cords with the adjustable ends attached at the clew with a knot to sewn in nylon webbing. Thus no plastic or metal hardware to chafe or corrode. There is a light weight 2 oz UV sun cover so the sail can be left hoisted and rolled while underway without sun damage. Sheet lead: Here are our
notes to the sail maker re where to sheet the clew of the sail: A turning block shackled to the forward bail/pad eye on the jib turning block would put it about 20" behind the aft end of the jib sheet track. Since it is so close it might be better to just run the Code 0 sheet through a lead block at the aft end of the track and then to the jib turning block as I currently do with the jib sheet. The current bail is now 30 years old and of 5/16" SS, so maybe a little weak for a 1000 SF sail. Size: Here are the notes we gave the
sail maker re sail size: Tack of sail should be up no less than 3' from the tack pad eye to clear the bow rail and allow room for the Facnor roller furler. Head of sail should be down no less than 1' from the halyard knot to allow room for the Facnor upper swivel. Allow about another 1' for stretch and slop. Total sail luff I figure should be no more than 55'-10".
(Topica Post 02/01/2004)
Just finished contracting with Supersailmakers in Ft Lauderdale for three
new sails. Thought some of you on the list might benefit from the following
information and specifications that I worked up for our new sails. It was
quite an enlightening experience and well worth the effort. --Sailrite Catalog Recent info from the past three years is generally better as cloth and
sail making technology is changing rapidly. The two major US sail cloth
manufacturers, Challenge and Contender, also have excellent info on their
websites. 24 Sep 09 Hull Rig, Buy New Sails 44 Boat & Crew: a heavily constructed 21 ton CSY 44 tall rig walkthrough cutter, my wife and i are preparing for a 10 year trade wind circumnavigation commencing winter 2004/2005 Sail Construction: extra heavy duty for long term blue water cruising, maximum uv resistance throughout, maximum chafe protection and minimum long term stretch Cloth: Challenge Marblehead premium high tenacity high modulus polyester Layout: jib, staysail and main crosscut, generally shaped with full entries and straight exits with draft well forward Stitching: triple stitched, uv resistant v-138 or better thread, extra wide seams at least 1.5" wide to allow for future repair without stitching over existing stitches, webbing and acrylic sun covers stitched with minimum same thread Corners: heavily reinforced extensive layered patches with at least 6 layers of cloth to spread loads and support corner rings and webbing, acrylic on jib and staysail to be doubled over edges as both chafe protection and sun cover, no leather Corner Rings: use #35 hydraulically pressed rugerson all stainless steel rings at jib and staysail clews and main head and clew, use heavy welded ss exposed rings at jib and staysail head, tack and main tack, exposed rings to be attached with heavy webbing and sun protected Chafe Protection: for jib and staysail use 4" 3 oz tape over all chafe points on seams including shrouds and spreaders, mainsail chafe protection described under mainsail specifics Tell Tales: full complement on all sails, made with yarn Maximum Dimensions:
indicated are approximate maximum edge distances ring to ring available,
loft must take own exact measurements and deduct appropriate number of
inches in each dimension, especially luff, to allow for heavy weather
tensioning and ultimate stretch due to aging Sail Lettering: not required Repair Kit and Spares: Provide
repair kit consisting of extra batten and leech end fitting, 5 awlslip
slides, webbing for slides, and misc strips and squares of 9.77 and 10.77 oz
cloth, telltale material Size/Shape: Maximum size to fill staysail triangle without touching any foredeck equipment, allow clearance over dinghy on cabin top, shape for power under 30 knots of wind but flatter as roller reefed to storm jib Cloth: 10.77 oz Challenge Marblehead polyester Reefing: Nr 5 luff tape for roller furling/reefing on Profurl NC 42, stitch in best quality closed cell foam in luff enclosed in polyester cloth to flatten sail shape when roller reefed as storm jib Clew Position: Generally high to clear dinghy on foredeck and so reefed sheet leads remain nearly same as unreefed, unfurled clew position should just clear mast and forward lower shrouds Sun Protection: Charcoal grey Sunbrella acrylic, sewn on port side, cover entire length of leech and foot and head and tack corners back approx 2' along luff edges, sew acrylic around edges and corners and over cloth and all strain relief webbing, install sun cover so easily replaced without removing any webbing or cloth Tack/Head: Cutbacks for Profurl NC 42 Telltales: Place
three telltales 12" aft of luff at 20/40/60% up from tack 2016 Note: After cruising many miles, and buying the Code Zero for light winds, we think this sail as specified is TOO BIG I would cut it down to at least 110% and not try to use it as a light air sail. The original CSY sail plan called for a Yankee with a high cut foot. If you plan to sail in areas where the wind is consistently more than 10-15 knots, you might consider going with a Yankee. Size/Shape: Approximately 120% overlap for my cutter rig with full entry and straight exit Cloth: 9.77 oz Challenge Marblehead polyester Reefing: Roller furling/reefing for profurl nc 42 (with heavy nr 6 luff tape), stitch in best quality closed cell foam in luff enclosed in polyester cloth to maintain sail shape during roller reefing Clew Position: Near boom height about 6' off deck and so reefed sheet leads remain nearly same as unreefed, ensure matches up with pole end approx 2' longer than J dimension Sun Protection: Charcoal grey sunbrella acrylic, sewn on port side, cover entire length of leech and foot and head and tack corners back approx 2' along both edges, sew acrylic around edges and corners and over cloth and all strain relief webbing, install sun cover so easily replaced without removing any webbing or cloth Chafe Protection: Sew in generous sized spreader patches of UV resistant polyester p & s Tack/Head: Cutbacks for Profurl NC 42 Telltales:
Place three telltales 12" aft of Luff at 20/40/60% up from tack Size/Shape: Loose footed cruising main with full entry and straight exit, easily flattened for heavier wind with outhaul and cunningham, maximum draft well forward, design with 12" roach that does not touch backstay Cloth: 9.77 oz challenge marblehead polyester Reefing: 2 reefs at approx 31 and 58 percent of sail area, 9' and 19' up luff, second reef should leave head near inner forestay junction, use hydraulically pressed large SS Rugerson #25 luff cringles with hand sewn webbed rings port and starboard, positioned to reach reefing hook at gooseneck over stacked sail, leech cringles same construction but larger #35 Rugerson cringles, extra cloth layering opposing strain at all reefing cringles, extra cloth layer under reef point eyes Chafe Protection: Sew in heavy chafe protection port and starboard over batten pockets and sail where they contact shrouds or spreaders, accommodate full hoist and both reefed positions, goal is to protect sail on long down wind runs with boom fully out and sail in contact with rig for long periods of time, chafe material to be further discussed Luff: all intermediate mainsail slides to be hand sewn on with 1" heavy tubular webbing, use PTFE Awlslip internal slides, double up at head and major stress points, use full length 3/8" New England spun Dacron boltrope with 9 oz tape over along entire luff Telltales: Position top two at leech end of top two battens and bottom two at max draft 25 and 50% up from foot Corners: Use #35 all SS hydraulically pressed Rugerson ring at head and tack, use heavy welded SS exposed ring with strong webbing strain reliefs at tack, use extra thickness reinforcing patches at corners as necessary to ensure extra strong attachment Cunningham: Place Rugerson all SS hydraulically pressed Cunningham ring along luff above tack Battens:
Install five full length batten pockets in sail consisting of 3 layers of 9
oz cloth (27 oz total) producing a tube for the batten sewn on a separate
heavy cloth slab, Reefing Safety Straps:
Owner to make two straps made with 1.5" heavy tubular webbing long enough
for three passes around reefing cringle and boom (boom 1'-9"), using hook
and loop strapping sew hook on one side and loop on other full length (Posted 4/23/2004) Mack Sails of Stuart FL is a high quality sail maker specializing in cruising sails. Both Tom Service/SV Jean Marie and Ron Sheridan/SV Memory Rose have had or are having sails made by Mack. My current Yankee Jib and Staysail are old Mack sails probably 15 or more years old. I have checked Mack out carefully and they are top notch but also not inexpensive. That said, I chose Super Sailmakers of Ft Lauderdale for all the reasons I mentioned in my post of a couple months ago. They are starting to construct my new sails next week. My Mainsail is also full batten and loose footed but with a different batten/slide system and a recent change to 3 reefs. We too are planning a circumnavigation and I believe either sail maker can properly advise you and construct suitable sails for that kind of service. Be sure to check out all the features each offer, especially the quality of sail cloth before you sign up. Also, it is most important to have any sail maker you choose come and personally measure your boat with you present so you can review with him the myriad of details that will require your attention. That may be difficult if you are on the West coast. I sure was glad I was there when Peter Grimm measured my boat. (top) (Topica Post 11/23/2004)
In reply to David's post re installing a roller furling staysail here's what
we did. An article in Cruising World several years ago by Peter Rabbit's
owners describes most of this project. There are two compelling reasons to use roller furling for the staysail. First, the much more convenient furling and unfurling of the sail results in greatly increased use when you need it. And second, when sailing in very rough conditions, you can easily reef the sail to storm jib size from the safety of the cockpit rather than having to go to the fore deck to replace the staysail with a storm jib. If you have a club foot it is downright life threatening. My new staysail is built heavy enough and sized to get to storm jib size in two rolls of the roller furler. The only additional running rigging requirement is to lead the roller furling/reefing line to the cockpit. It has to be strongly made, kept in good condition and lead through strong fairleads all the way to a winch in the cockpit. I added a rope clutch to the cap rail just forward of the mid ships steps and a Barient 27 to the aft starboard cockpit combing for just this purpose. After 20 trips up and down the Keys I can tell you that this system works just fine. The only down side to all this is the added expense, a new sail, a couple of boat $ units, and some work on your part installing the furler and deck hardware. Anyone that can read instructions and get up their mast can do this project. If you plan on keeping your boat and sailing in blue water you'll find it all well worthwhile. (top) (CSY Owners Post 5/23/2009) During the past
12 years I have had three staysail arrangements on the boat, original
clubfooted RF with Hyde Streamstay, loose footed hank on and now loose
footed RF with Profurl NC 42.
(Topica Post 2005) Here, for anyone interested are our specs for a new storm trysail for Soggy Paws to be built by Super Sailmakers in Ft Lauderdale. By way of explanation as to how we arrived at the square footage target, the ORC maximum, (P X E)X.175, for a tall rig is about 145 sf. Since our third reef in the new main is 185 sf, not too much more than the 145 sf, we decided to drop down a little more to allow the sail to be carried in a bit stronger wind and yet still move the boat. This is where the sail maker's offshore experience will help you make the right decision the first time. I am now growing tired of spending money on sails so this will be the last one. When we leave for the Pacific we will carry the three new sails, jib, main and staysail, the new storm trysail and our old but refurbished staysail. At the advice of several cruisers who have crossed the Pacific, and because of our rising waterline and overflowing lockers, we will not carry a spinnaker/drifter. I feel somewhat better about that decision now that we have installed a new additional fuel tank and can carry 160 gallons of diesel, enough for about a week of motoring. STORM TRYSAIL FOR CSY 44 WT TALL RIG CUTTER
Below are several pictures of the original CSY SS boom gooseneck fitting and a new tack fitting with reefing horns made by JSI in St Petersburg, FL. Also there are pictures of modifications I made to the boom for the control lines, the vang/boom brake system and the new location for the reefing winch on the aft side of the boom. This winch has been upgraded to self tailing in 2007.
The issue of whether or not to replace 30 year old 304 SS
internally mounted chainplates should be a no brainer. Any rigger will tell
you it is at least 10 years past time. When I took mine out in 2000 in
Trinidad, I cleaned them up and set them on the ground overnight. The next
morning it was easy to see all the small hairline cracks. After cleaning the chain plates thoroughly, we could see small stress cracking/crevice corrosion on all the 3/8" flat bar portions and one even had very small radial cracks around the clevis pin hole! We have Rig Check dye penetrant aboard but didn't need it to see the cracks once the chain plates were clean. Also, after a thorough cleaning with toilet bowl cleaner and left out over night, the rust came back in the cracks, making it very easy to see the problem areas. All six were replaced with 316L SS using mine as templates. The plans I have (drawings 47-18 and 47-19 both alt A ) say the originals were made of 304 CRES SS. The slight loss in strength with 316L SS is offset by the improved corrosion resistance. All our new standing rigging wire is 316 SS for the same reason and with the advice of a good rigger. We also replaced all the bolts with new but since they are way overkill (a 1/4" bolt is worth 7000 lbs in shear) I saw no need to use any exotic metals here and besides 316 or better SS bolts were not available locally. In order to try to prevent future leaks at the cap rail I did as I have with all the deck and hull fittings. By beveling the opening at the top of the teak cap rail around where the chain plate exits we were able to form a ring of caulk (I used 3M 101) around the chain plate that gets pushed into the joint as you apply pressure with the SS trim piece. This works especially well if you allow the caulk to set up before applying final pressure to the four screws on the trim plate. Also, I carefully smoothed the openings in the cap rail with a small chisel. Then I applied a solid coating of West epoxy and removed the amine blush with a wet 3M pad. This gives the caulk something solid to grab other than raw wood. I believe a big factor in our leaks was this raw wood joint and the unfinished cap rail allowing the water to run through to the hull deck joint. 3M says that 101's adhesion is greatly improved if you use their primer first on raw teak. If you take this project on plan on two days to remove and the same to replace. We painted the inside of the hull inside the cabinets and left the 1/4" oak ply trim wood off so we can see how the chain plates are doing at any time. They make a great "show and tell" for visitors. Total cost for 6 chain plates using a large industrial welding shop in Trinidad and new 304 SS bolts and nuts was about $750 US. I was sure glad I took the time to do the replacement then as the 20 year old SS was giving me nightmares during those dark stormy nights at sea. 2005 Update: After much frustration trying to stop the leaks coming into the boat through the chain plate cap rail penetrations, and after seeing Ron Sheridan's solution on Memory Rose, I finally bit the bullet and replaced my 5 year old chain plates I had had made in Trinidad with new exterior round ones. They are all one piece, made of 316L SS, 1/2" instead of 3/8" thick, and fit entirely above the rub rails. Using the same design as Ron, they were made and hand polished by Rick Heim of Gulf Coast Industrial Repair in St Petersburg. Cost for the six plates was about $1500 as the cost of SS has skyrocketed in the past year. The shroud angles were taken from my boat using thin aluminum mockups provided by Rick. They were all done the same with two holes at the top for attaching the shrouds and eight holes for the hull bolts. Inside I used large fender washers under lock nuts since the bolts are in shear. Now no more leaks and I feel even better about my chain plates during those dark stormy nights at sea. They truly are bullet proof. At least four sets of these plates have been made by Rick as of 2007.
I don't have specs for the chain plates, but if you
look at Ron Sheridan's Blog site there is lots of detail on the
round chain plates. To the right is Ron's sketch of one of his
chainplate sections. Here is
Ron's writeup on Chainplates.
Rick Heim, our welder in St Pete, also has the info to make these.
Re the fiberglass strength in that area, I believe it is plenty
strong as the glass is over 3/4" thick there. Again read Ron's info
on his Blog site. We both agree on the strength there. If you have
any further doubts google "hand laid fiberglass strength in shear"
and see what you get. I know for example the bolts are plenty
strong because 1/4" bolts in shear are worth 7000 lbs, and we are
using 8 1/2" bolts. No need for titanium or other exotic metals
here!
See also Beaujolais' writeup about their chainplate replacement project, and Roger's special tool that made it possible to get the old chainplates out. Several other CSYers have made chainplate drawings and documented a little bit their trials and tribulations. Here are some zipped chainplate drawing files.
Moonstar chainplate drawings
Kitty Hawk chainplate drawings Topica Post 1/13/08 Also, I just
replaced my shroud mast tangs with new 316L SS. All the rational for
replacing old chainplates applies to these too. I had already replaced two
of them with stress cracks years ago. And, like the chain plates, they are
almost 30 years old. While we were at it we replaced most of what's on top
of the mast also. The first one, your hoisting halyard, needs a tail long enough to be
fairlead to your windlass. In our case this is the boom topping lift which
doubles as a spare main halyard. To get the extra tail length you could tie
in a suitable length of similar line as a knot will easily roll around the
windlass rope drum. If you are unsure what knot to use consult with a good
Boy Scout to get help with the bend (knot used to tie two lines together). Obviously tie your own knot. Attach your bosun's chair to the hoisting halyard and run the other end down
through a mast mounted rope clutch around a mast mounted halyard winch and
then forward to your windlass's rope drum. It helps if you can stand at a
proper tailing angle to the windlass and still operate the windlass
controls. A good reason to use a wired remote for the windlass instead of
deck mounted foot controls. Climb into your bosun's chair and attach a 3' length of about 3/8" line from
the chair lifting point to either side of the safety halyard with a rolling
hitch or something similar. The knot you use should easily slide up and down
by hand, but should hold firmly if tightned suddenly. Again get help from a
Boy Scout, if you are unsure. Now have your mate operate the windlass to hoist you up while you slide the
rolling hitch up with one hand. Do the same coming down. If anything should
break or your mate keels over you will still be secure and can yell for help
to get down. The rope clutch is a great safety stop on the way up, but must
be released, and therefore is of no use on the way down. That's where the
short line and rolling hitch come in.
Though we do regular rig inspections, we missed a corroding
toggle on the backstay until it actually broke. Fortunately, we
discovered the broken toggle while doing another pre-passage inspection.
I had missed the problem on earlier inspecations because the corrosion was
in a place that was difficult to see from my bosun's chair. The
backstay toggle had a severe case of crevice corrosion around the pin-hole
and needed to be changed out ASAP. I had 5 spare toggles aboard, but all were
for the lower shroud/stay toggles and none were the longer upper stay
variety. After searching online and in rigging catalogs, I found that
no one makes a toggle that fits our mast cap. So we had to have a new
toggle fabricated. I was fortunate to have a friend in Ecuador, where
we were at the time, who was fluent in Spanish, and had a car, and the time
to hunt down a good fabrication shop in Quito.
I was able to have 2 new ones fabricated of
316L 6mm stainless steel for a total cost of $300. The stainless and
the machining was of top quality. The
extra thickness makes up for the loss in strength when changing from 304 SS,
which the original toggles were, to 316L SS.
Changing Profurl Bearings
I've had my two Profurl NC42s now for about 10 years with no
problems. I have, however, heard of one or two bearing problems in the past.
If you figure out how to take yours apart look closely for any sign of water
intrusion into the bearings and where it might have come from. Taking them apart is pretty much the
same as any mechanical seal, I first drilled a small hole into the seal in
order to get a scratch awl into the seal without damaging the bearing
surfaces in order to pry out the seal (you are going to destroy the seal any
way you do it). I have pictures and a diagram of how they are assembled in
case anyone needs it. Once the seal is removed, there are three
snap-rings in the interior of the swivel, both internal and external types.
The first one is mainly a stop for the seal, then on some there is an
aluminum spacer that needs to come out before you can remove the next
snap-ring that holds the bearings. After removal of the second one you
can press the center section of the swivel out of the carrier which will
push out the other seal.
I found info on the bearing sizes from Pro furl and went to Miller Bearings
in Tampa and they ordered the correct sizes for me. The old bearings are
carbon steel, open faced, as an extra precaution I ordered sealed bearing as
well as outer seals as before.
Assembly is a little different than removal,
you must install the first seal onto the center section and put on the first
snap-ring before pressing it into the carrier, unless you have some very
long snap-ring pliers.
The system is back up and working smoothly at a cost of less than $120. I
also found that this is a more common problem than we thought. Most riggers
do not even bother replacing the bearings, they just order new assemblies.
Don't want to think about how much that would have cost.
Profurl of course advertises their systems as having lifetime seals, but
they don't warrant them that long. There are some of their furling
units that they no longer make parts for, my particular one is in that
category as it is a mainsail furler unit. replacing the whole assembly was
not an option.
(top)
Rig tuning is usually done in two steps. First at
the dock and then underway in about 15 kts of wind. A number of texts cover
this including
Once you have reviewed the theory from the books,
it is a good thing to learn from a rigger the first time you have it done. I
hired a local well-regarded rigger to do my boat, and took good notes my
first time and have done it myself ever since. (Nowadays, you
can probably find a Youtube on this...)
Using a Loos PT-3 rig tension gage is a big help
so that you can tighten to the same tension each time. New wire stretches.
You should retune after a haulout, and once fully loaded for cruising.
Below is how Gary of Keys Rigging taught me, but
other riggers may do this differently.
The tension numbers off
the Loos gage I use for my CSY Tall Rig are: These numbers are a
percentage of wire size and strength.
You start by loosening up
all shrouds and stays including any upper diagonals. Use two strong
screwdrivers, one to turn the turnbuckle body while holding the upper screw
attached to the wire with the other. Use lubrication on the turnbuckle screw
threads to keep them from galling. Tefgel is best but others will work.
If you can, remove the mast blocks at the partners.
Then position the top of
the mast in the center athwart ships of the boat by direct measurement with
a strong tape to the cap rails.
Next, have a look from
about 100' away at the side of the boat and make sure the mast is vertical
fore and aft, or slightly raked aft, but no more than a degree or so. It
should not be raked forward at all. My rigger told me that the normal eye
can see the difference in a degree of mast angle. You could also use a level
for this.
Starting with the upper shrouds and moving down,
sight up the mainsail track and get the mast straight by tensioning at least
half full tension on both sides.
Starting with the bottom
shrouds and moving up, tighten to full tension by tensioning equally on both
sides. Keep the mast track straight. The longer the shroud the more tension
it will need.
When the mast is straight tighten up any diagonals
equally.
Tensioning the stays requires some trial and
error. Since the fore and backstays are about the same length as the cap
shroud they need about the same tension. Also, you want a little bend in the
mast, but no more than half the fore and aft mast dimension. 1.5-2.0" is
best for the 44 masts. You also want the fore stay tight enough so you don't
get the jib falling off too much to leeward when going up wind. Same for the
staysail.
Start by tightening the forestay and backstay
equally to half tension. The backstay tension should approximately equal the
forestay tension, so if you have a furler on the forestay you will only be
able to gage the backstay. Check the mast angle to make sure it is still
vertical as described above. Next tighten the backstay to full tension and
see what this does to the mast bend. Sight up the rear of the mast from the
side, and if you get satisfactory bend stop. If not you will have to work
with the two turnbuckles until you get proper tension and bend.
Finally, check the
intermediates to see if their tension is still correct. If not, adjust them
and/or the staysail stay. Staysail stay tension will be approximately the
same as the intermediates.
Once all is done, reinsert
straight cotter pins and bend the ends out no more than 20 degrees. That's
plenty to hold them in place and will allow you to get them out easily next
time.
Then take the boat to sea. Check to see if the
mast remains straight in 15 knots of wind on a beam reach. Check that you
still have proper mast curve. Also, you should have no floppy shrouds.
Finally, check the two headsails for no more than about 12-15" camber in the
two stays.
That's about it. At the dock it will take you a
good half day and it's best done with two persons-one to keep an eye on the
mast track and the other to turn the turnbuckles.
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