Catamarans have a completely different rigging setup, and of course our rigging on the 2004 St. Francis is quite different than what was on our 1980 CSY. This section is currently under construction to reflect those changes. The old CSY rig page can still be found here.
Best Rigging Reference Book: Brian Toss's The Complete Rigger's Apprentice
We have 6 sheaves in the end of the boom to
handle the outhaul and 3 reefing lines with two spares. Our outhaul comes
out the forward side of the boom to a cleat. The three reefing lines run
inside the boom and then out under the forward end of the boom through line
stoppers to a self tailing winch on the back of the mast.
This post is from the original CSY rigging section. However, we moved the Code Zero from the CSY to the St. Francis. We had a sailmaker friend show us how to cut down the sail to fit the St. Francis rig, and Sherry did the sewing. We now use a "prodder" on the bow (a removable bow sprit) for the Code Zero.
Since we have arrived in the light-air tropics, and diesel fuel has gone up over $4/gallon, we decided we needed a light air sail. We have recently purchased and installed a new Code Zero sail with a Facnor Continuous Furler. After getting quotes from various sailmakers, we again went with Super Sailmakers in Ft. Lauderdale. We talked at length with Peter Grimm and told him what we were looking for. Here is what we ended up with.
We did a few measurements for them (by then the boat was in Panama) and they shipped the finished sail to us in Panama via Marine Warehouse. It fit perfectly and will last us for many thousands of miles of light air sailing.
When not using it, it is lowered and coiled into the bag, and completely detached from the bow, including the Facnor furler. We use the spinnaker block at the top of the mast (be sure your block is a strong beefy block, because we have blown out 2 cheap plastic blocks already, due to the large sail area).
A roller furling Code 0 sail is a specialty sail optimized for upwind light air sailing (5-12 knots apparent). But it will also work well reaching and off the wind. We wanted to be sure we could go both up and down wind and thus were willing to give up a little down wind efficiency, that a fuller cut lighter spinnaker sail has, in order to do that. It is made of heavier and different cloth than a traditional spinnaker made of rip stop nylon. There are more expensive cloths made for this purpose, like Contender's Stormlite or Mylar, but we chose a light weight Dacron based on it being nearly as effective, comparatively UV resistant and at significantly less cost.
Some good reading material includes the
following, all from the May 2005 Cruising World:
Here are the specifications:
Sail area maximized to
move boat in light air 10 knots apparent and below, while still able to furl
in a hurry. For our
57.00' and J of 20.25' the Luff
is 55.83', leech is 52.23', and foot is 30.97' (CSY Dimensions). Total square footage
is 988. Based on having the foot of the
sail just clear the bow rail to prevent chafe we could have added another 2'
to the luff.
Cloth: 4.18 oz Challenge Performance Cruise cloth. This is a great cloth for the job as it has some give like nylon which helps keep it from slatting too much or bouncing around in choppy conditions. It also has much better strength, chafe/tear resistance and UV resistance than nylon
Stitching: It will have two rows of three step stitching which is appropriate over over kill for this type of sail.
Corner details: The head, tack and clew have beefy welded external stainless steel O rings suitable for the Facnor furler and 2 rows of three step corner patches commensurate to the sail's task. The clew also has four 1" nylon webbing straps sewn on to spread the ring load onto the patch and a Doyle 'Clew Trimline' strip of colored cloth attached on both sides to indicate the proper trim angle line up.
Edges: The luff rope is made of doubled 3/8" Vectran to reduce stretch and inhibit twist when the halyard is tight and the boat is going up wind. It is sewn into the luff in two parallel strands beside each other from the tack ring up through the head ring and back down. There are leech and foot cords with the adjustable ends attached at the clew with a knot to sewn in nylon webbing. Thus no plastic or metal hardware to chafe or corrode. There is a light weight 2 oz UV sun cover so the sail can be left hoisted and rolled while underway without sun damage.
Here are our
notes to the sail maker re where to sheet the clew of the sail:
Size: Here are the notes we gave the
sail maker re sail size:
Tack of sail should be up no less than 3’ from the tack pad eye to clear the bow rail and allow room for the Facnor roller furler. Head of sail should be down no less than 1’ from the halyard knot to allow room for the Facnor upper swivel. Allow about another 1’ for stretch and slop. Total sail luff I figure should be no more than 55’-10” (CSY Dimensions). Photos below from CSY installation.
(Topica Post 02/01/2004)
Just finished contracting with Supersailmakers in Ft Lauderdale for three
new sails. Thought some of you on the list might benefit from the following
information and specifications that I worked up for our new sails. It was
quite an enlightening experience and well worth the effort.
Recent info from the past three years is generally better as cloth and
sail making technology is changing rapidly. The two major US sail cloth
manufacturers, Challenge and Contender, also have excellent info on their
24 Sep 09 Hull Rig, Buy New Sails 44
Boat & Crew: a heavily constructed 21 ton CSY 44 tall rig walkthrough cutter, my wife and i are preparing for a 10 year trade wind circumnavigation commencing winter 2004/2005
Sail Construction: extra heavy duty for long term blue water cruising, maximum uv resistance throughout, maximum chafe protection and minimum long term stretch
Cloth: Challenge Marblehead premium high tenacity high modulus polyester
Layout: jib, staysail and main crosscut, generally shaped with full entries and straight exits with draft well forward
Stitching: triple stitched, uv resistant v-138 or better thread, extra wide seams at least 1.5" wide to allow for future repair without stitching over existing stitches, webbing and acrylic sun covers stitched with minimum same thread
Corners: heavily reinforced extensive layered patches with at least 6 layers of cloth to spread loads and support corner rings and webbing, acrylic on jib and staysail to be doubled over edges as both chafe protection and sun cover, no leather
Corner Rings: use #35 hydraulically pressed rugerson all stainless steel rings at jib and staysail clews and main head and clew, use heavy welded ss exposed rings at jib and staysail head, tack and main tack, exposed rings to be attached with heavy webbing and sun protected
Chafe Protection: for jib and staysail use 4" 3 oz tape over all chafe points on seams including shrouds and spreaders, mainsail chafe protection described under mainsail specifics
Tell Tales: full complement on all sails, made with yarn
indicated are approximate maximum edge distances ring to ring available,
loft must take own exact measurements and deduct appropriate number of
inches in each dimension, especially luff, to allow for heavy weather
tensioning and ultimate stretch due to aging
Sail Lettering: not required
Repair Kit and Spares: Provide
repair kit consisting of extra batten and leech end fitting, 5 awlslip
slides, webbing for slides, and misc strips and squares of 9.77 and 10.77 oz
cloth, telltale material
Cloth: 9.77 oz Challenge Marblehead polyester
Reefing: Roller furling/reefing for profurl nc 42 (with heavy nr 6 luff tape), stitch in best quality closed cell foam in luff enclosed in polyester cloth to maintain sail shape during roller reefing
Clew Position: Near boom height about 6' off deck and so reefed sheet leads remain nearly same as unreefed, ensure matches up with pole end approx 2' longer than J dimension
Sun Protection: Charcoal grey sunbrella acrylic, sewn on port side, cover entire length of leech and foot and head and tack corners back approx 2' along both edges, sew acrylic around edges and corners and over cloth and all strain relief webbing, install sun cover so easily replaced without removing any webbing or cloth
Chafe Protection: Sew in generous sized spreader patches of UV resistant polyester p & s
Tack/Head: Cutbacks for Profurl NC 42
Place three telltales 12" aft of Luff at 20/40/60% up from tack
Size/Shape: Loose footed cruising main with full entry and straight exit, easily flattened for heavier wind with outhaul and cunningham, maximum draft well forward, design with 12" roach that does not touch backstay
Cloth: 9.77 oz challenge marblehead polyester
Reefing: 2 reefs at approx 31 and 58 percent of sail area, 9' and 19' up luff, second reef should leave head near inner forestay junction, use hydraulically pressed large SS Rugerson #25 luff cringles with hand sewn webbed rings port and starboard, positioned to reach reefing hook at gooseneck over stacked sail, leech cringles same construction but larger #35 Rugerson cringles, extra cloth layering opposing strain at all reefing cringles, extra cloth layer under reef point eyes
Chafe Protection: Sew in heavy chafe protection port and starboard over batten pockets and sail where they contact shrouds or spreaders, accommodate full hoist and both reefed positions, goal is to protect sail on long down wind runs with boom fully out and sail in contact with rig for long periods of time, chafe material to be further discussed
Luff: all intermediate mainsail slides to be hand sewn on with 1" heavy tubular webbing, use PTFE Awlslip internal slides, double up at head and major stress points, use full length 3/8" New England spun Dacron boltrope with 9 oz tape over along entire luff
Telltales: Position top two at leech end of top two battens and bottom two at max draft 25 and 50% up from foot
Corners: Use #35 all SS hydraulically pressed Rugerson ring at head and tack, use heavy welded SS exposed ring with strong webbing strain reliefs at tack, use extra thickness reinforcing patches at corners as necessary to ensure extra strong attachment
Cunningham: Place Rugerson all SS hydraulically pressed Cunningham ring along luff above tack
Install five full length batten pockets in sail consisting of 3 layers of 9
oz cloth (27 oz total) producing a tube for the batten sewn on a separate
heavy cloth slab,
(Posted 4/23/2004) Mack Sails of Stuart FL is a high quality sail maker specializing in cruising sails. Both Tom Service/SV Jean Marie and Ron Sheridan/SV Memory Rose have had or are having sails made by Mack. My current Yankee Jib and Staysail are old Mack sails probably 15 or more years old. I have checked Mack out carefully and they are top notch but also not inexpensive.
That said, I chose Super Sailmakers of Ft Lauderdale for all the reasons I mentioned in my post of a couple months ago. They are starting to construct my new sails next week. My Mainsail is also full batten and loose footed but with a different batten/slide system and a recent change to 3 reefs. We too are planning a circumnavigation and I believe either sail maker can properly advise you and construct suitable sails for that kind of service.
Be sure to check out all the features each offer, especially the quality of sail cloth before you sign up. Also, it is most important to have any sail maker you choose come and personally measure your boat with you present so you can review with him the myriad of details that will require your attention. That may be difficult if you are on the West coast. I sure was glad I was there when Peter Grimm measured my boat. (top)
I've had my two Profurl NC42s now for about 10 years with no
problems. I have, however, heard of one or two bearing problems in the past.
If you figure out how to take yours apart look closely for any sign of water
intrusion into the bearings and where it might have come from.
I found info on the bearing sizes from Profurl and went to Miller Bearings in Tampa and they ordered the correct sizes for me. The old bearings are carbon steel, open faced, as an extra precaution I ordered sealed bearing as well as outer seals as before. Assembly is a little different than removal, you must install the first seal onto the center section and put on the first snap-ring before pressing it into the carrier, unless you have some very long snap-ring pliers.
The system is back up and working smoothly at a cost of less than $120. I also found that this is a more common problem than we thought. Most riggers do not even bother replacing the bearings, they just order new assemblies. Don't want to think about how much that would have cost.
Profurl of course advertises their systems as having lifetime seals, but
they don't warrant them that long. There are some of their furling
units that they no longer make parts for, my particular one is in that
category as it is a mainsail furler unit. replacing the whole assembly was
not an option.
View these on the original CSY Owners Forum post here