RIG & SAILS
July 26, 2018
Tuning the Rig
Best Rigging Reference Book:
Brian Toss's The Complete Rigger's Apprentice
Painting the Mast
(30 Apr 09 CSYO Post) I painted my mast
10 years ago (1998). Here are a few bits of advice.
1 Remove abosolutely everything from the mast before you start cleaning and
painting. When you reattach any metal parts esp SS use a good corrosion
inhibitor and or thread lock as appropriate. I also placed a piece of flat
rubber mat between flat objects like steps and winches and the painted mast.
It will go a long way toward keeping the corrosion down.
2 Make absolutely sure you have the aluminum down to bare metal including in
all cracks and crevices before you apply the cleaning and primer coats. Any
corrosion left on will end up bubbling out the paint later. Preparation is
3 Use the best two part polyurethane you can get to do the painting. Awlgrip
works well and is available from distributors like Gold Coast Distributors
in Miami for up to 50% discount.
4 After I did all the prep work including the acid wash I had a local spray
painter spray it for about $50. You will get a better looking job and it is
quick and easy.
Mast Boot Seal
(12 Nov 2009 CSYO Post) The holes
through the mast and partners with the allthread, nuts and washers are
original. The arrangement is so that the middle of the cabintop has vertical
support to prevent flexing. It also helps hold the mast in fore and aft
column. It is not designed to hold the mast in athwartships column-the
blocking does that. The original blocking was cut to fit wood. It doesn't
keep the mast from falling out of an inverted boat.
Re the leaking, this is one of those things that requires substantial
sleeping on to solve. I guess I haven't slept on it enough yet because mine
still leaks after 12 years. Since we are still hauled out with bottom work
to finish, and it hasn't rained here in months, it is not at the top of my
To Do list, yet.
My next effort is going to be seal the entire mast partner cavity with a
product similar to Spartight. This is on my list for next month, so I will
let you know how it works. Tom Service on Jean Marie used 3 tubes of
silicone caulk and says it has held up well. He hasn't even covered it yet.
Both of these solutions have the added benefit of acting as blocking to hold
the mast in place as it passes through the partners. The trick is going to
be how to deal with the allthread so that it is sealed but can still be
easily removed when unstepping the mast.
(13 Nov 09 CSYO Post) We have water coming from the top of the
mast around the halyard sheaves which are open to allow the lines to pass
through. We also have line entrances in the mast to allow all our halyards
to run down inside the mast. I think that water runs down the inside of the
mast and then hits the bolt and runs outboard in which ever direction you
are heeled. You could prove that theory by taking a quart or so of water to
the top of the mast and pouring it in the sheave hole to see what happens.
I have a fairly well sealed mast boot, boot cover and full mainsail cover
that closes in all the mast winches and halyards down to the deck. So I
don't think it is coming in around my mast boot or from the outside of the
The problem is how do you seal that bolt as it exits the mast. There is not
much room in there, and there is probably some movement as the mast pumps in
a seaway. I think Spartight or Silicone caulk may be the best solution.
(7 Dec 09 CSYO Post) I'm now about 80% done with my mast seal project.
Here's what I used as a substitute for Spartite as a seal:
Devcon Flexane Liquid
I believe that this is the same
stuff that comes with the Spartite kit. This looks like
the same size as in the pic (Kit 1) in the West Marine catalog for $143. The
advantages of using this are that it provides a good seal while acting as
mast/partner wedge all around the mast. You may be able to find it
elsewhere (Walmart or automotive stores).
I used Duct tape to seal the bottom of the partners around the mast. Then
added hard rubber wedges/blocking. Then added plastic hose around the 1/2"
allthread and greased the partners. And finally mixed and poured the Flexane
80 Liquid in. It formed a nice tight hard rubber seal in about a half an
hour. Since I didn't have enough aboard, and there are no Walmarts in
Ecuador (yet), I am going to fill the rest of the cavity with Silicone caulk
like Tom Service did.
(27 Dec 09 CSYO Post) Mast partner seal project is done and doesn't
appear to leak. Sherry made a new Sunbrella cover to keep the sun off the
top layer of Silicone.
So far have just tested the seal around the mast from the deck with buckets
of water. It remains to be seen what happens when rain water is introduced
from the mast top.
December 2012 Update: We are happy with
the end result, and it has kept us leak-free for the last 3 years.
Boom Mainsail Control Lines
We have 6 sheaves in the end of the boom to
handle the outhaul and 3 reefing lines with two spares. Our outhaul comes
out the forward side of the boom to a cleat. The three reefing lines run
inside the boom and then out under the forward end of the boom through line
stoppers to a self tailing winch on the back of the mast.
Reefing lines for the clew reefing cringles (large gromments in the leech of
the sail) should start with a slip bolon tied around the boom directly under
each cringle. From there each reefing line should go up through its
respective cringle and then down and aft to one of the sheaves in the end of
the boom. Each reefing line will then run forward inside the boom, exit at
one of the exit plates on the side of the boom and then through the cam
cleat to hold it in place. A cleat forward of each cam cleat would be much
more secure than just a cam cleat.
The other grommets in the sail forward of each clew reefing cringle are
called reef points and are used to tie off the foot of the sail around
itself using a square/reef knot (no grannies). This keeps the reefed foot of
the sail from flopping in the breeze and chafing your bimini/dodger.
The outhaul should go from the fully hoisted clew cringle around the center
sheave and then forward inside the boom as do the clew reefing lines. Using
the center sheave helps keep the boom upright and from laying over on its
For security most sailors tie a separate short line through the active
reefing cringle and around the boom so that if the reefing line breaks you
won't end up tearing the sail at the reef points.
Either way of securing the bitter end of the reefing line will work.
However, I believe that tying it around the boom is more secure as then
there is no danger of the padeye pulling out or breaking or the line
breaking at the sharp turn of the padeye.
The "reef points" are best secured around the foot of the sail if it is
loose footed in order to control the bulk of the reef sail. If yours is not
loose footed then I guess you will have to tie them around the boom also.
If the reefing line breaks all the load of the reefed sail will go on the
reef points and the sail will rip, so we (and most racers/cruisers) tie
another line around the reefed clew cringle and the boom just to make sure
it is secure.
The staysail is a very important part of your
sail inventory. And you should have it set up so that you can use it both up
and down wind.
During our recent passages from the Galapagos, via Easter Island and
Pitcairn to French Polynesia the staysail was up the entire time except for
a day or two when motoring in a flat calm.
Our normal sail configuration upwind and beam reaching was main, usually
reefed, full staysail, and 120 pct jib, usually reefed. All sails on the
same side of the boat. Down wind we used Tom's rig of reefed main vanged and
prevented out leeward, jib on the fixed pole upwind and staysail sheeted
tight down the middle of the boat. In both cases we tried to get the main
reefing right long before we needed to reduce sail and then just rolled the
jib in and out as needed. Sometimes the jib was reefed up to 90 pct. But the
staysail was always out 100 pct keeping us steady and moving.
We usually had at least one reef in the main. Most of the time wind speeds
varied from 15-25 kts. We put the first reef in the main at 15 kts and the
second at 20 kts.
We always carry the RIB dinghy upside down on the cabin top while at sea. If
we had had the staysail on a clubfoot, the sheet and traveler would have
interfered and we would have had no place to adequately stow the dinghy. You
need to both stow the dinghy on the cabin top and be able to fly the
staysail, especially if you encounter a storm at sea. Beaujolais had this
problem during their recent downwind passage from the Galapagos to the
Marquesas, so could not fly the staysail down wind to lessen the roll and
help reduce the boat's tendency to round up. Much better to fly the staysail
loose footed with all rigging out of the way of the dinghy.
44 Tall Rig Mast Height
Topica Post 10/31/08. In the Fla Keys I
had many near heart attacks passing under the Channel 5 and Moser Channel
bridges while doing Boy Scout charters. We often heeled the boat with all
hands to one side or the other just to 'make sure' and to the great delight
of the scouts. I also removed all the equipment at the top of the mast. Both
those bridges were near 65' at MHW with no chop. During spring high tides,
however, it was some times too close to call, so a couple of times we ran
all the way to Key West down the North side of the Keys.
When I moved to Melbourne I encountered a reported 64' bridge at Pineda
Causeway. So just to make sure of our current height I took careful
measurements. It turned out that the height from the top of the truck
(horizontal aluminum piece at mast top) to the water was exactly 63'-5". So
theoretically I had 7" to spare. At the time I took the measurement we were
at about half liquid/provisions load, having raised our waterline in years
past about 5" and in brackish (salt and fresh water mix). The water salinity
you are in and your load will definitely make a difference. As will whether
or not you still have the original Kenyon tall mast. The best way to
determine your mast height is to take your own measurement, as yours will
probably be a few inches different than every one else's.
As it turned out we went under that bridge several times with the depth
board reading 64' and we seemed to always have more than a foot to spare. I
know of at least one owner, Ed Marill of Siesta, who before moving back to
the Keys had his mast top cut down 18".
We don't have that bridge problem here down south, so I have reinstalled all
my stuff on top and haven't had a near heart attack in many months.
CSY Post 9 Aug 09 The number 65' is
just a round number for the tall mast. It was designed a bit shorter to
allow the boat to get under the 65' Inland Waterway bridges.
Actually, when I very carefully measured from the top of our aluminum mast
cap to the water, while on an even heel, just before we left Melbourne Fl in
2007 we were 63'-5". That allowed us to get out under the 64' Indian River
bridges by 7", lots of room. I had stripped the top of the mast of lights,
antennas etc so we wouldn't have a problem.
I think we are about 4-5" down from the designed water line. So that would
make the top of a tall rig Kenyon mast cap about 63'-9" from the designed
water line if I did the math right. My mast is the original Kenyon with the
Like some others, we also have rigged
internal halyards with rope clutches on our tall Kenyon spar. We think it is
a much better arrangement than the original and much safer if you are using
the halyard and windless to go up your mast. It also will more than double
halyard life, especially if you end for end your halyards periodically and
use sacrificials while in port for more than a couple of weeks.
Below are several other worthwhile modifications
that can be made to the tall rig mast:
New Trilight with LED bulb and at right
aluminum pointed lightning rod
Spinlock rope clutches for all halyards, all
halyard winches have Winchers on them
New thicker shroud tangs of 316L SS
Masthead fly mounting bracket
Top left is new running backstay tang
Roller Furling Code Zero Light
we have arrived in the light-air tropics, and diesel fuel has gone up over
$4/gallon, we decided we needed a light air sail. We have recently
purchased and installed a new Code Zero sail with a
Facnor Continuous Furler. After getting quotes from various
sailmakers, we again went with
Super Sailmakers in Ft. Lauderdale. We talked at length with Peter
Grimm and told him what we were looking for. Here is what we ended up
- 988 Sq Ft (Luff
55.83', Leech 52.23', Foot 30.97')
- 4.18 oz Challenge Performance Cruise Dacron
- Vectran Luff Rope
- Leech cord
- Head and Tack Stainless rings suitable for the Facnor Furler
- Double rows of three step stitching, with corner reinforcements
- Optional light-weight stick-on UV cover (an additional $800)
We asked Peter to have it cut a little fuller than the normal
Code Zero (which is really designed to be a close reaching sail), so we
could use it off the wind as well. It is designed to sheet to the back
of the genoa track, where we have added a second lead block.
We did a few measurements for them (by then the boat was in
Panama) and they shipped the finished sail to us in Panama via
It fit perfectly and will last us for many thousands of miles of light air
When not using it, it is
lowered and coiled into the bag, and completely detached from the bow,
including the Facnor furler. We use the spinnaker block at the top of
the mast (be sure your block is a strong beefy block, because we have blown
out 2 cheap plastic blocks already, due to the large sail area).
A roller furling Code 0 sail is a specialty
sail optimized for upwind light air sailing (5-12 knots apparent). But
it will also work well reaching and off the wind.
We wanted to be sure we
could go both up and down wind and thus were willing to give up a little
down wind efficiency, that a fuller cut lighter spinnaker sail has, in order to do that. It
is made of heavier and different cloth than a traditional spinnaker made of
rip stop nylon. There are more expensive cloths made for this purpose, like Contender's Stormlite or Mylar, but we chose a light weight Dacron
based on it being nearly as effective, comparatively UV resistant and at
significantly less cost.
Some good reading material includes the
following, all from the May 2005 Cruising World:
-Breaking the Code, Kenny Wooton
-Heavy Hitters for Light Air, Carol Hasse
-Ghosting Across the Tasman, Evans Starzinger
-Also Doyle's Phamplets on light air sails, UPS and APC
Here are the specifications:
Sail area maximized to
move boat in light air 10 knots apparent and below, while still able to furl
in a hurry. For our
57.00' and J of 20.25' the Luff
is 55.83', leech is 52.23', and foot is 30.97'. Total square footage
is 988. Based on having the foot of the
sail just clear the bow rail to prevent chafe we could have added another 2'
to the luff.
Shape: This sail is basically a large light weight Genoa but with some
refinements. It is cross, not radial or miter, cut. The draft is set
at 15% instead of the traditional 18% for asymmetrical spinnakers. This
makes it a flatter sail, better for up wind work. The clew is
positioned about 5.5' off the aft deck so that we can still see under the
sail at a moderate heel.
The sail is designed to sheet at the back of the
Genoa track so that we will have sheeting to all the track forward when the
sheet is eased.
4.18 oz Challenge
Performance Cruise cloth.
This is a great cloth for the
job as it has some give like nylon which helps keep it from slatting too much
or bouncing around in choppy conditions. It also has much better
strength, chafe/tear resistance and UV resistance than nylon
It will have two rows of three step
stitching which is appropriate over over kill for this type of sail.
Corner details: The head, tack
and clew have beefy welded external stainless steel O rings suitable for the
Facnor furler and 2 rows of three step corner patches commensurate to the
sail's task. The clew also has four 1" nylon webbing straps sewn on to
spread the ring load onto the patch and a Doyle 'Clew Trimline' strip of
colored cloth attached on both sides to indicate the proper trim angle line
Edges: The luff rope is made of doubled
Vectran to reduce stretch and inhibit twist when the
halyard is tight and the boat is going up wind. It is sewn into the
luff in two parallel strands beside each other from the tack ring up through
the head ring and back down. There are leech and
foot cords with the adjustable ends attached at the clew with a knot to sewn
in nylon webbing. Thus no plastic or metal hardware to chafe or
corrode. There is a light weight 2 oz UV sun cover so the sail can be left
hoisted and rolled while underway without sun damage.
Here are our
notes to the sail maker re where to sheet the clew of the sail:
clarify the sheet lead we think it best to sheet the sail to the jib track
rather than the old and possibly weak bail on the front of the jib turning
block or an additional pad eye aft of that. One other complicating factor,
not previously mentioned, is that we have a lifeline stanchion on the toe
rail that may be in the way of a sheet led directly to that area. It could
be moved if necessary. But if there is no other over riding reason to sheet
the sail further aft than the jib track, let’s sheet it to an appropriate
spot on the track so that we can move the car, if needed, for the wind
conditions. We will attach a turning snatch block to the front of the jib
turning block bail and keep a close eye on it.
block shackled to the forward bail/pad eye on the jib turning block would
put it about 20” behind the aft end of the jib sheet track. Since it is so
close it might be better to just run the Code 0 sheet through a lead block
at the aft end of the track and then to the jib turning block as I currently
do with the jib sheet. The current bail is now 30 years old and of 5/16”
SS, so maybe a little weak for a 1000 SF sail.
Size: Here are the notes we gave the
sail maker re sail size:
Regarding size, we will
take your recommendations, keeping in mind that we may be rolling it in and
out a lot in the tropics where light air often mixes with violent squalls.
We want to keep the boat moving, but also it needs to be of a size that we
can handle it easily when furling in a hurry. We certainly don’t want to
risk tearing the sail or having an accident just to get a few extra square
feet. Harmon’s (Dutch Love) 4 oz Dacron miter-cut older light air sail
measures 58x35x54 with about the same rig and boat size. He says it works
well if that’s of any help to you in determining approximate square footage.
The halyard top (bottom of halyard knot under pulley sheave) to center of pin
at tack pad eye (on anchor roller tray in front of bow rail and jib tack pad
eye) = 60’-10”.
Tack of sail should be up no less than 3’ from the tack pad eye to clear
the bow rail and allow room for the Facnor roller furler. Head of sail should be down no less than 1’ from the halyard knot to allow
room for the Facnor upper swivel. Allow about another 1’ for stretch and slop.
luff I figure should be no more than 55’-10”.
Facnor furler and Vectran luff rope at tack
Sheet lead through sliding block on jib
track to turning snatch block on bail
to primary winch
Head showing upper swivel
New Cruising Sails
(Topica Post 02/01/2004)
Just finished contracting with Supersailmakers in Ft Lauderdale for three
new sails. Thought some of you on the list might benefit from the following
information and specifications that I worked up for our new sails. It was
quite an enlightening experience and well worth the effort.
Over the course of four months I sent out 10 sets of basic specs and
received quotes from Calvert, Mack, Atlantic Sailtraders and
in the US and Lee and Hong Kong overseas. The quotes ranged from $7.5K to
$10.5K. Sails ordered direct from overseas firms are subject to about $1K in
shipping, duty, and customs agent fees and may require finishing full batten
construction in the US. After including all costs for equal sails the least
expensive overseas sails from Hong Kong were only about $1.2K less than
Super Sailmakers with a slow season and commercial discount. I considered
working with a local sail maker that would measure my boat and provide other
personal advice and services well worth the difference.
I found the following to be some of the major discussion/decision points:
--Batten length and details
--Cloth quality and weight-look very closely at quality
--Layout and cut
--Mainsail reef details
--Chafe and sun protection
--Use-Seasonal, coastal or blue water
--Leech and foot construction
--Jib and staysail clew positions
--Mainsail luff construction and hardware
My file of reading material is now a full 2 inches thick and includes many
good recent resources including:
--Sail Care catalog
--Sail Warehouse catalog
--Practical Sailor articles from 1 Oct and 1 Nov 2003
--Dashew's Cruising Encyclopedia
--and a host of various magazine articles
Recent info from the past three years is generally better as cloth and
sail making technology is changing rapidly. The two major US sail cloth
manufacturers, Challenge and Contender, also have excellent info on their
I recommend you do your homework well as this is one of the most expensive
and important projects you will do, and one with which many of us are not
well acquainted. In the end I found myself shopping more for an experienced
sail maker I could trust to advise me well than one who would do it my way at
the best price.
24 Sep 09 Hull Rig, Buy New Sails 44
I bought new cruising sails about 4 years ago for my tall rig 44, after a
substantial amount of research, from Supersailmakers. Since then several
other CSY owners, including Jim Dill, have bought from them also. Their
sails are superb.
Our main is full batten which I would highly recommend. Most of the others
have done the same. Just pay attention to how the full battens are done as
there can be a chafe problem sailing down wind.
My jib is 120 pct, 720 sf, but if I had to do it over again I think I would
buy somewhat smaller like around 110-115 pct. (Note, for the record, we have
a Tall Mast CSY 44)
We have since then purchased a 1000 sf light air Code 0 so we don't really
need such a large sail. Don't buy a sail with a low clew. A yankee works
well on a cutter, especially up wind. If you are not going to use a yankee
just make sure it is cut so that you can see under it when heeled. Ours is
cut with the clew about 7' above the deck which gives plenty of height to
Not all cloth is created equal and each cloth maker has several levels of
quality. It is worth reasearching this a bit so that you know what cloth is
being quoted when you go to buy sails. Cheap cloth won't hold it shape as
long as the more expensive cloths and will deteriorate quicker in the sun.
We bought the best cloth because we wanted it to last a long time.
There are lots of other things to consider when buying new sails, so be a
knowledgeable buyer and do some reasearch, ask lots of questions of
sailmakers and make sure you have done a good job of comparing the quotes.
Each sailmaker has his own idea about how things should be done when
building a sail. Also, there are lots of ways for sailmakers to cut costs,
so make sure you know exactly what you are getting before you buy.
(6 Oct 09 CSYO Post):8 oz cloth is probably the minimum you would want to
use for a 44 cruising main. Heavier cloth will last longer in the sun and
hold its shape for longer. It will also give you better chafe protection.
Before you sign up with a sai maker be aware of the quality of the cloth you
are getting and how the sail is constructed. Better cloth, construction and
chafe protection will cost more. You could also ask sailmakers to quote you
several grades of cloth so you can see what the difference in cost is. Our
main was constructed with 9.77 oz cloth, and although heavy it is bullet
proof. I initally wanted only two reefs but later Tom Service and some
additional reasearch convinced me that 3 'gears' was better
One other thought. If you are considering using a foreign sail maker, like
Hong Kong or Lee, be sure you know exactly what they are doing for you and
exactly what the shipping, customs and agent costs are going to be. I
contacted both directly by email, not through their US agents, and they were
not able to give me the extra costs. After a bit of research I found the
costs to total near $1000. The other way you can buy from overseas
sailmakers is to use their US agents. In this case they add extra for their
costs to import the sail plus a markup. When I discussed my new sails with
Hong Kong and Lee I found the following disadvantages to using a foreign
-they will not come to your boat to measure your rig and discuss your needs.
-they will want to construct your sail their way and will not offer many
options compared to most US sailmakers
-they cannot ship full battons and may not be able to construct a full
-they offered only one grade of cloth
-if there was a problem with the sail due to the measurements I had taken
the fix was on me
So the bottom line on using a foreign sailmaker is be careful and know
exactly what you are getting.
SOGGY PAWS SAIL SPECIFICATIONS
General Specifications for All Sails
Boat & Crew: a
heavily constructed 21 ton CSY 44 tall rig walkthrough cutter, my wife and i
are preparing for a 10 year trade wind circumnavigation commencing winter
extra heavy duty for long term blue water cruising, maximum uv resistance
throughout, maximum chafe protection and minimum long term stretch
Marblehead premium high tenacity high modulus polyester
staysail and main crosscut, generally shaped with full entries and straight
exits with draft well forward
stitched, uv resistant v-138 or better thread, extra wide seams at least
1.5" wide to allow for future repair without stitching over existing
stitches, webbing and acrylic sun covers stitched with minimum same thread
reinforced extensive layered patches with at least 6 layers of cloth to
spread loads and support corner rings and webbing, acrylic on jib and
staysail to be doubled over edges as both chafe protection and sun cover, no
Rings: use #35 hydraulically pressed rugerson all stainless steel rings
at jib and staysail clews and main head and clew, use heavy welded ss
exposed rings at jib and staysail head, tack and main tack, exposed rings to
be attached with heavy webbing and sun protected
Protection: for jib and staysail use 4" 3 oz tape over all chafe points
on seams including shrouds and spreaders, mainsail chafe protection
described under mainsail specifics
Tales: full complement on all sails, made with yarn
indicated are approximate maximum edge distances ring to ring available,
loft must take own exact measurements and deduct appropriate number of
inches in each dimension, especially luff, to allow for heavy weather
tensioning and ultimate stretch due to aging
-leech and foot construction: two ply leech and foot tablings, install
extra thickness of wider tape under the doubled leech tabling and leech
line, heavy duty leech lines centered in the tabling with stitching on
either side, leech lines adjustable at clews and at all leech reef cringles
with cam cleats to hold adjustments
Lettering: not required
Repair Kit and Spares: Provide
repair kit consisting of extra batten and leech end fitting, 5 awlslip
slides, webbing for slides, and misc strips and squares of 9.77 and 10.77 oz
cloth, telltale material
Maximum Dimensions: Luff 38-0, Leech 33-0, Foot 13-10, approx 230 SF
Maximum size to fill staysail triangle without touching any foredeck
equipment, allow clearance over dinghy on cabin top, shape for power under
30 knots of wind but flatter as roller reefed to storm jib
Cloth: 10.77 oz
Challenge Marblehead polyester
Nr 5 luff tape for roller furling/reefing on Profurl NC 42, stitch in best
quality closed cell foam in luff enclosed in polyester cloth to flatten sail
shape when roller reefed as storm jib
Generally high to clear dinghy on foredeck and so reefed sheet leads remain
nearly same as unreefed, unfurled clew position should just clear mast and
forward lower shrouds
Charcoal grey Sunbrella acrylic, sewn on port side, cover entire length of
leech and foot and head and tack corners back approx 2' along luff edges,
sew acrylic around edges and corners and over cloth and all strain relief
webbing, install sun cover so easily replaced without removing any webbing
Cutbacks for Profurl NC 42
three telltales 12" aft of luff at 20/40/60% up from tack
Jib Sail Specifics:
Maximum Dimensions: Luff 56-0, Leech 50-6, Foot 26-9, approx 700 sf .
Note that Soggy Paws has a TALL rig.
After cruising many miles, and buying the Code Zero for light winds, we
think this sail as specified is TOO BIG I would cut it down to at
least 110% and not try to use it as a light air sail. The original CSY
sail plan called for a Yankee with a high cut foot. If you plan to
sail in areas where the wind is consistently more than 10-15 knots, you
might consider going with a Yankee.
Approximately 120% overlap for my cutter rig with full entry and straight
Cloth: 9.77 oz
Challenge Marblehead polyester
furling/reefing for profurl nc 42 (with heavy nr 6 luff tape), stitch in
best quality closed cell foam in luff enclosed in polyester cloth to
maintain sail shape during roller reefing
Near boom height about 6' off deck and so reefed sheet leads remain nearly
same as unreefed, ensure matches up with pole end approx 2' longer than J
Protection: Charcoal grey sunbrella acrylic, sewn on port side, cover
entire length of leech and foot and head and tack corners back approx 2'
along both edges, sew acrylic around edges and corners and over cloth and
all strain relief webbing, install sun cover so easily replaced without
removing any webbing or cloth
Sew in generous sized spreader patches of UV resistant polyester p & s
Cutbacks for Profurl NC 42
Place three telltales 12" aft of Luff at 20/40/60% up from tack
Maximum dimensions: Luff 52-9, Foot 15-7, Leech 53-8, approx 430 SF.
Note that Soggy Paws has a TALL rig.
Loose footed cruising main with full entry and straight exit, easily
flattened for heavier wind with outhaul and cunningham, maximum draft well
forward, design with 12" roach that does not touch backstay
Cloth: 9.77 oz
challenge marblehead polyester
Reefing: 2 reefs
at approx 31 and 58 percent of sail area, 9' and 19' up luff, second reef
should leave head near inner forestay junction, use hydraulically pressed
large SS Rugerson #25 luff cringles with hand sewn webbed rings port and
starboard, positioned to reach reefing hook at gooseneck over stacked sail,
leech cringles same construction but larger #35 Rugerson cringles, extra
cloth layering opposing strain at all reefing cringles, extra cloth layer
under reef point eyes
Protection: Sew in heavy chafe protection port and starboard over batten
pockets and sail where they contact shrouds or spreaders, accommodate full
hoist and both reefed positions, goal is to protect sail on long down wind
runs with boom fully out and sail in contact with rig for long periods of
time, chafe material to be further discussed
all intermediate mainsail slides to be hand sewn on with 1" heavy tubular
webbing, use PTFE Awlslip internal slides, double up at head and major
stress points, use full length 3/8" New England spun Dacron boltrope with 9
oz tape over along entire luff
Position top two at leech end of top two battens and bottom two at max draft
25 and 50% up from foot
Corners: Use #35
all SS hydraulically pressed Rugerson ring at head and tack, use heavy
welded SS exposed ring with strong webbing strain reliefs at tack, use extra
thickness reinforcing patches at corners as necessary to ensure extra strong
Place Rugerson all SS hydraulically pressed Cunningham ring along luff above
Install five full length batten pockets in sail consisting of 3 layers of 9
oz cloth (27 oz total) producing a tube for the batten sewn on a separate
heavy cloth slab,
- Leech ends to consist of 4 layers of 9 oz cloth to hold the protected
- Use Bainbridge Aqua Batten A305 hardware at forward ends to tension the
batten and provide a universal joint with the Awlslip internal slides
- Provide four 7/16" and one 3/8" full length round pultruded fiberglass
battens with glued on leech end fittings
Reefing Safety Straps:
Owner to make two straps made with 1.5" heavy tubular webbing long enough
for three passes around reefing cringle and boom (boom 1'-9"), using hook
and loop strapping sew hook on one side and loop on other full length
(Posted 4/23/2004) Mack
Sails of Stuart FL is a high quality sail maker specializing in cruising
sails. Both Tom Service/SV Jean Marie and Ron Sheridan/SV Memory Rose have
had or are having sails made by Mack. My current Yankee Jib and Staysail are
old Mack sails probably 15 or more years old. I have checked Mack out
carefully and they are top notch but also not inexpensive.
That said, I chose
Super Sailmakers of Ft Lauderdale for all the reasons I mentioned in my post
of a couple months ago. They are starting to construct my new sails next
week. My Mainsail is also full batten and loose footed but with a different
batten/slide system and a recent change to 3 reefs. We too are planning a
circumnavigation and I believe either sail maker can properly advise you and
construct suitable sails for that kind of service.
Be sure to check out all
the features each offer, especially the quality of sail cloth before you
sign up. Also, it is most important to have any sail maker you choose come
and personally measure your boat with you present so you can review with him
the myriad of details that will require your attention. That may be
difficult if you are on the West coast. I sure was glad I was there when
Peter Grimm measured my boat. (top)
(Topica Post 11/23/2004)
In reply to David's post re installing a roller furling staysail here's what
we did. An article in Cruising World several years ago by Peter Rabbit's
owners describes most of this project.
First, the club foot on the staysail is unnecessary and very dangerous in a
really heavy seaway. I was convinced to make a change after the 20 year old
SS fitting that holds the club gooseneck broke while underway on a Boy Scout
trip. The sail is small and can easily be tacked after you are done tacking
the jib, usually without even a winch handle. I initially installed a new
3/8" wire stay with toggles top and bottom and a new turnbuckle to replace
the existing 1/4" wire stay. I removed the track from the roller furling
main, another headache now gone, cut two 4' sections and installed them
outboard port and starboard on the cabin top. I moved the two Lewmar 30 ST
winches, originally used for the double ended main sheet, to the forward
cockpit combing port and starboard. The Barient 27 ST, originally used for
the staysail sheet, I moved aft on the port cockpit combing for the
mainsheet (now dead ended on the other side). By fair leading the staysail
sheets on each side through sliding blocks on the two cabin top tracks and
then through standup blocks at the aft end of the tracks you can lead the
sheets through small holes in the dodger front direct to the Lewmar 30
ST winches. In the last two years I have added rope clutches just forward of
these two sheet winches to allow them to be used for other lines.
And finally the roller furling for the staysail I added just this year as I
was able to pick up a Profurl NC 42, used, for $600 that matches the one I
have on the jib. I originally chose Profurl over the others because of the
reputation it has with the round the world racing sailors. If you find one
used with bent extrusions they can easily be bent back straight. Profurl,
now owned by Wichard, can also make repairs at reasonable cost. Although the
argument against using roller furling on the staysail includes the slight
possibility of mechanical failure, most riggers and sail makers now agree
that the state of the art in furlers is such that the chance of a failure is
There are two compelling reasons to use roller furling for the
staysail. First, the much more convenient furling and unfurling of the sail
results in greatly increased use when you need it. And second,
when sailing in very rough conditions, you can easily reef the sail to storm
jib size from the safety of the cockpit rather than having to go to the fore
deck to replace the staysail with a storm jib. If you have a club foot it is
downright life threatening.
My new staysail is built heavy enough and sized
to get to storm jib size in two rolls of the roller furler. The only
additional running rigging requirement is to lead the roller furling/reefing line
to the cockpit. It has to be strongly made, kept in good condition
and lead through strong fairleads all the way to a winch in the cockpit. I
added a rope clutch to the cap rail just forward of the mid ships steps and a Barient 27 to the aft starboard cockpit
combing for just this purpose. After 20 trips up and down the Keys I can
tell you that this system works just fine. The only down side to all this is
the added expense, a new sail, a couple of boat $ units, and some work on your
part installing the furler and deck hardware. Anyone that can read
instructions and get up their mast can do this project. If you plan on
keeping your boat and sailing in blue water you'll find it all well
(CSY Owners Post 5/23/2009) During the past
12 years I have had three staysail arrangements on the boat, original
clubfooted RF with Hyde Streamstay, loose footed hank on and now loose
footed RF with Profurl NC 42.
We now use a 120 pct (700) SF jib and a nearly 100 pct staysail on the
boat. Both use Profurl NC 42 furlers. The jib has no problem tacking
through the slot between the two because it can slide on the staysail
extrusion easier than on a staysail stay alone. When tacking we deal with
the jib first and then the staysail. A child could tack the small staysail
without a winch handle, and actually it helps the tack back winded. And,
most important, if properly sized and weighted you can quickly furl it to
storm sail size in a blow. No need to go out on the fore deck to hoist
another sail in really heavy weather. You will use the stay sail much more
if it is roller furled. And it is a great sail for the boat because you can
quickly reduce the sail plan to heavy weather/storm size without losing all
your headsails as would be the case with a sloop rig.
If you read any of the storm tactics literature on heavy weather you will
find that a club foot is a liability as it prevents you from safely working
on the fore deck. If it ever gets loose in a blow you have real trouble.
Finally, most cruisers use the top of the main cabin in that area to stow
the dinghy while underway offshore. A club foot boom and its running
rigging will usually foul that area.
Track, lead sliding block, and fair-
Aft end of track, fairlead block, rope clutch,
and Lewmar 30 ST winch under hat
(Topica Post 2005) Here, for anyone
interested are our specs for a new storm trysail for Soggy Paws to be built
Sailmakers in Ft Lauderdale. By way of explanation as to how we
arrived at the square footage target, the ORC maximum, (P X E)X.175, for a
tall rig is about 145 sf. Since our third reef in the new main is 185 sf,
not too much more than the 145 sf, we decided to drop down a little more to
allow the sail to be carried in a bit stronger wind and yet still move the
boat. This is where the sail maker's offshore experience will help you make
the right decision the first time. I am now growing tired of spending money
on sails so this will be the last one. When we leave for the Pacific we will
carry the three new sails, jib, main and staysail, the new storm trysail and
our old but refurbished staysail. At the advice of several cruisers who have
crossed the Pacific, and because of our rising waterline and overflowing
lockers, we will not carry a spinnaker/drifter. I feel somewhat better about
that decision now that we have installed a new additional fuel tank and can
carry 160 gallons of diesel, enough for about a week of motoring.
STORM TRYSAIL FOR CSY 44
WT TALL RIG CUTTER
Built, reinforced and
chafe protected to withstand the heaviest storm conditions
Cloth to be 12 oz
Challenge High Modulus.
design and cut. Built extra flat with max camber of 5%.
In storm conditions
the staysail will be furled to storm jib size and sheeted to staysail
sheet winches on the forward cockpit combing. Storm trysail would then
sheet via a snatch turning block mounted at the jib turning block and
then to the jib sheet winches. Measured distance from cap shroud aft to
a snatch block on the jib turning block is 16'-10". Another option is
the large cleats 4'-0" further aft that could also be used as the
attachment points for sheet leads. These points may have to be improved
for added strength.
When the sail is
fully hoisted and sheeted tight, the clew should ideally set just above
boom. Distance from the cabin top at the base of the mast- to the top of
the boom is 49.0", to the top of the furled main stack at the head is
External heavy duty
7/8" bronze slides attached with tubular webbing to #4 grommets spaced
24" apart. Double slides at head and tack webbed to pressed on Ruckerson
Ruckerson pressed on rings at all 3 corners with substantial webbing
strain relief on all.
Low aspect sail with
18'-19' luff. There is exactly 20' of track available above the furled
stacked head of the mainsail.
Target sail area
should be about 120 sf which is about 25 sf less than ORC maximum.
Two ply leech with
with black 2" webbing as second tape running along the entire length for
extra strength. 3/8" Dacron boltrope along the luff. Foot strongly
multiple layered corner patches
Triple stitch all
panels with heavy V128 or better thread.
Tack downhaul line of
7/16" very low stretch Dacron and sufficient length to be cleated near
the gooseneck. (top)
Main Boom Modifications
Below are several pictures of the original
CSY SS boom gooseneck fitting and a new tack fitting with reefing horns made
by JSI in St Petersburg, FL. Also there are pictures of modifications
I made to the boom for the control lines, the vang/boom brake system and the
new location for the reefing winch on the aft side of the boom. This
winch has been upgraded to self tailing in 2007.
Gooseneck with new tack fitting
New tack fitting with reefing horns
Gooseneck with expanded forward
hole for 5/8" tack fitting pin
Aft end of boom cut off 18" and with
new 6 sheave box for main sail
Forward end of boom showing cutout
for aluminum box with 3 rope stoppers
for reefing lines
Under forward end of boom showing
Walder boom brake as part of 8 to 1
purchase vang system and the reefing
winch on the aft side of the mast
Chain Plate Replacement
The issue of whether or not to replace 30 year old 304 SS
internally mounted chainplates should be a no brainer. Any rigger will tell
you it is at least 10 years past time. When I took mine out in 2000 in
Trinidad, I cleaned them up and set them on the ground overnight. The next
morning it was easy to see all the small hairline cracks.
There is no way you can evaluate the chainplates without taking them out of
the boat. It is a worth while project if you expect to retain your mast
intact in any wind. There are several posts describing the technique on this
list. Also at least two of the CSY owner websites have information.
I have seen one break and heard of several others. A friend with a 44 WO
doing Boy Scout charters had his original cap shroud chain plate break just
below the caprail in 15 knots of wind. He was able to tack quickly and avoid
a dismasting. I sold him my 5 year old 316 SS original design chain plates
and had new round external ones built to Ron's design. If you want to retain
the original internal mounting I'd recommend doing them all in one piece, no
welding, like Chilly Pepper did.
Any 304 SS over 15 years old is suspect. Risking losing your mast is not
worth it. This project should be right up there at the top of your work
list. And while you are at it, how about those 30 year old mast tangs at the
other end of your rigging?
(Topica Post 14 April 99)This is no easy task but well worth the time, money
and effort. From the start, because they all showed moderate corrosion, were
20 years old and had persistent leaks, I had decided to remove and inspect
them all, rather than just try to clean up and inspect the inside surface.
Now that I've removed them, I don't see how you could do a proper
inspection, especially of the critical hull/deck joint area, without taking
them out. Because of the age and importance of these pieces to the strength
of the rig I had pretty much convinced myself that this was going to be a
During removal I encountered few problems until I tried to punch the lower
1/2 inch bolts out from the inside the boat after removing the locknuts.
Most would not budge. Moderate heat applied to the threaded end of the bolts
with a propane torch softened the 5200 and resin enough so that they popped
out easily with a center punch and hammer. The upper bolts were removed by
attaching vice grips to the nut inside and turning the flathead slotted bolt
outside with a ground to fit chisel held with another vice grip.
After cleaning the chain plates thoroughly,
we could see small stress cracking/crevice corrosion on all the 3/8" flat
bar portions and one even had very small radial cracks around the clevis pin
hole! We have Rig Check dye penetrant aboard but didn't need it to see the
cracks once the chain plates were clean. Also, after a thorough cleaning
with toilet bowl cleaner and left out over night, the rust came back in the
cracks, making it very easy to see the problem areas.
All six were replaced with 316L SS using mine
as templates. The plans I have (drawings 47-18 and 47-19 both alt A ) say
the originals were made of 304 CRES SS. The slight loss in strength with
316L SS is offset by the improved corrosion resistance. All our new standing
rigging wire is 316 SS for the same reason and with the advice of a good
rigger. We also replaced all the bolts with new but since they are way
overkill (a 1/4" bolt is worth 7000 lbs in shear) I saw no need to use any
exotic metals here and besides 316 or better SS bolts were not available
In order to try to prevent future leaks at
the cap rail I did as I have with all the deck and hull fittings. By
beveling the opening at the top of the teak cap rail around where the chain
plate exits we were able to form a ring of caulk (I used 3M 101) around the
chain plate that gets pushed into the joint as you apply pressure with the
SS trim piece. This works especially well if you allow the caulk to set up
before applying final pressure to the four screws on the trim plate. Also, I
carefully smoothed the openings in the cap rail with a small chisel.
Then I applied a solid coating of West epoxy and removed the amine blush
with a wet 3M pad. This gives the caulk something solid to grab other
than raw wood. I believe a big factor in our leaks was this raw wood joint
and the unfinished cap rail allowing the water to run through to the hull
deck joint. 3M says that 101's adhesion is greatly improved if you use
their primer first on raw teak.
If you take this project on plan on two days
to remove and the same to replace. We painted the inside of the hull
inside the cabinets and left the 1/4" oak ply trim wood off so we can see
how the chain plates are doing at any time. They make a great "show and
tell" for visitors. Total cost for 6 chain plates using a large industrial
welding shop in Trinidad and new 304 SS bolts and nuts was about $750 US.
I was sure glad I took the time to do the replacement then as the 20 year
old SS was giving me nightmares during those dark stormy nights at sea.
2005 Update: After much frustration trying to stop the leaks
coming into the boat through the chain plate cap rail penetrations, and
after seeing Ron Sheridan's solution on Memory Rose, I finally bit the
bullet and replaced my 5 year old chain plates I had had made in Trinidad
with new exterior round ones.
They are all one piece, made of 316L SS,
1/2" instead of 3/8" thick, and fit entirely above the rub rails.
Using the same design as Ron, they were made and hand polished by Rick Heim
of Gulf Coast Industrial Repair in St Petersburg. Cost for the six
plates was about $1500 as the cost of SS has skyrocketed in the past year.
The shroud angles were taken from my boat using thin aluminum mockups
provided by Rick. They were all done the same with two holes at the
top for attaching the shrouds and eight holes for the hull bolts.
Inside I used large fender washers under lock nuts since the bolts are in
shear. Now no more leaks and I feel even better about my chain plates
during those dark stormy nights at sea. They truly are bullet proof.
At least four sets of these plates have been made by Rick as of 2007.
I don't have specs for the chain plates, but if you
look at Ron Sheridan's Blog site there is lots of detail on the
round chain plates. To the right is Ron's sketch of one of his
chainplate sections. Here is
Ron's writeup on Chainplates.
Rick Heim, our welder in St Pete, also has the info to make these.
Re the fiberglass strength in that area, I believe it is plenty
strong as the glass is over 3/4" thick there. Again read Ron's info
on his Blog site. We both agree on the strength there. If you have
any further doubts google "hand laid fiberglass strength in shear"
and see what you get. I know for example the bolts are plenty
strong because 1/4" bolts in shear are worth 7000 lbs, and we are
using 8 1/2" bolts. No need for titanium or other exotic metals
New round external chain plates,
three each side with PVC covers
Old internal chain plates with
Sunbrella covers, original cap rail
Close up of new chain plates during
cap rail change out
Port side view of boat with new
chain plates and cap rail
Beaujolais' writeup about their chainplate replacement project, and
Roger's special tool that made it possible to get the old chainplates out.
Mast Climbing System
Topica Post 1/13/08 Also, I just
replaced my shroud mast tangs with new 316L SS. All the rational for
replacing old chainplates applies to these too. I had already replaced two
of them with stress cracks years ago. And, like the chain plates, they are
almost 30 years old. While we were at it we replaced most of what's on top
of the mast also.
As usual, this job I thought would take a day or so took almost four. After
years of hoisting someone up by halyard winch we decided to try my Mast
Ascenders, similar to ATN's Top Climbers, since we had work to do at the top
of the mast. I had never used them although purchased several years ago.
They work but are somewhat tiring, especially if you are going up and down
more than once a day. However, they do allow work on the top of the mast
which you can't do sitting in a chair unless you have steps at the top.
So the third day we decided to try rigging our new spare main halyard with a
long tail forward to the windlass. Wow, what an easy way to get up and down.
And it's really safe, if you use an internal halyard with a rope clutch on
the mast and a good fair lead forward. For added safety we also rigged our
main halyard to the bosun's chair. This system is so easy we'll use this
from now on to go up and down the mast. Of course, the rest of you have
probably figured this out long ago. I'm just glad it's all finally done.
(25 Jan 2010 CSYO Post): I wouldn't want to go up our 65' mast more than
once a day with the Mast Ascender, but the Top Climber might be better. Even
so, I'm not looking for a workout when doing this, so easier is better.
However, now that we've had that experience and discovered the "windlass
powered elevator option" we will never do it any other way in port. This
option uses your horizontally mounted windlass to power you up and down as
You will need two main halyards. Both should be 1/2" or better line and led
internally over the aft sheaves at your mast top. Don't use an external
spinnaker halyard because if the block breaks you may be headed down fast.
The first one, your hoisting halyard, needs a tail long enough to be
fairlead to your windlass. In our case this is the boom topping lift which
doubles as a spare main halyard. To get the extra tail length you could tie
in a suitable length of similar line as a knot will easily roll around the
windlass rope drum. If you are unsure what knot to use consult with a good
Boy Scout to get help with the bend (knot used to tie two lines together).
Obviously tie your own knot.
The other is your safety halyard, and it is firmly attached at both ends
near the deck alongside your hoisting halyard. In our case this safety
halyard is our main halyard.
Attach your bosun's chair to the hoisting halyard and run the other end down
through a mast mounted rope clutch around a mast mounted halyard winch and
then forward to your windlass's rope drum. It helps if you can stand at a
proper tailing angle to the windlass and still operate the windlass
controls. A good reason to use a wired remote for the windlass instead of
deck mounted foot controls.
Climb into your bosun's chair and attach a 3' length of about 3/8" line from
the chair lifting point to either side of the safety halyard with a rolling
hitch or something similar. The knot you use should easily slide up and down
by hand, but should hold firmly if tightned suddenly. Again get help from a
Boy Scout, if you are unsure.
Now have your mate operate the windlass to hoist you up while you slide the
rolling hitch up with one hand. Do the same coming down. If anything should
break or your mate keels over you will still be secure and can yell for help
to get down. The rope clutch is a great safety stop on the way up, but must
be released, and therefore is of no use on the way down. That's where the
short line and rolling hitch come in.
We also have mast steps to the first spreaders for short trips up to get a
better look at shallow water ahead. We have used them for that purpose only
three times in 10 years.
I doubt that this method would be effective in a gale offshore. But I don't
plan to have to go up in that case. That is why we have spare halyards. It
works great in calm conditions and makes me feel really safe aloft. And, the
best part is that Sherry never complains anymore about having to hoist me up
After having been up the mast several times on steps in a seaway, they are
not necessarily the best solution either. With the mast whipping back and
forth, you have to hang on TIGHT! and then you have no hands left to do the
work you are trying to do.
And, you get very fatigued very quickly. In just a few minutes (when I was
in good shape and under 40), I was in fear of losing my grip due to fatigue.
I had to come down and rest (arms and legs shaking) before I could go back
up and finish the job (the radar had come off its mounts, after 2 months of
pounding to weather on the 'thorny path', and was swinging by its cable!)
But going up the mast with ANYTHING in a seaway is going to be problematic.
Corroded Rigging Toggle
Though we do regular rig inspections, we missed a corroding
toggle on the backstay until it actually broke. Fortunately, we
discovered the broken toggle while doing another pre-passage inspection.
I had missed the problem on earlier inspecations because the corrosion was
in a place that was difficult to see from my bosun's chair. The
backstay toggle had a severe case of crevice corrosion around the pin-hole
and needed to be changed out ASAP.
Old and New Toggles
New Toggle in Place
I had 5 spare toggles aboard, but all were
for the lower shroud/stay toggles and none were the longer upper stay
variety. After searching online and in rigging catalogs, I found that
no one makes a toggle that fits our mast cap. So we had to have a new
toggle fabricated. I was fortunate to have a friend in Ecuador, where
we were at the time, who was fluent in Spanish, and had a car, and the time
to hunt down a good fabrication shop in Quito.
I was able to have 2 new ones fabricated of
316L 6mm stainless steel for a total cost of $300. The stainless and
the machining was of top quality.
extra thickness makes up for the loss in strength when changing from 304 SS,
which the original toggles were, to 316L SS.
Changing Profurl Bearings
(9 Sep 09 CSYO Post): Below is information on how to
change out a Profurl Roller Furler frozen bearing.
I've had my two Profurl NC42s now for about 10 years with no
problems. I have, however, heard of one or two bearing problems in the past.
If you figure out how to take yours apart look closely for any sign of water
intrusion into the bearings and where it might have come from.
I believe the Profurl manual says to wash them off with fresh water after
use. So if you haven't been doing that and salt water got inside that may be
the problem. It could also be a problem with the extrusions and their
connecting pieces that ride around the headstay. Or a bent extrusion. You
might want to look around carefully for other things that might be causing
the problem before you launch into the bearings.
(29 Sep Jackson CSYO Post): Ok, I removed the system and found that the
bearings in the main swivel unit had started rusting up. The double
lipped seals had let moisture in.
Taking them apart is pretty much the
same as any mechanical seal, I first drilled a small hole into the seal in
order to get a scratch awl into the seal without damaging the bearing
surfaces in order to pry out the seal (you are going to destroy the seal any
way you do it). I have pictures and a diagram of how they are assembled in
case anyone needs it. Once the seal is removed, there are three
snap-rings in the interior of the swivel, both internal and external types.
The first one is mainly a stop for the seal, then on some there is an
aluminum spacer that needs to come out before you can remove the next
snap-ring that holds the bearings. After removal of the second one you
can press the center section of the swivel out of the carrier which will
push out the other seal.
I found info on the bearing sizes from Pro furl and went to Miller Bearings
in Tampa and they ordered the correct sizes for me. The old bearings are
carbon steel, open faced, as an extra precaution I ordered sealed bearing as
well as outer seals as before.
Assembly is a little different than removal,
you must install the first seal onto the center section and put on the first
snap-ring before pressing it into the carrier, unless you have some very
long snap-ring pliers.
The system is back up and working smoothly at a cost of less than $120. I
also found that this is a more common problem than we thought. Most riggers
do not even bother replacing the bearings, they just order new assemblies.
Don't want to think about how much that would have cost.
Profurl of course advertises their systems as having lifetime seals, but
they don't warrant them that long. There are some of their furling
units that they no longer make parts for, my particular one is in that
category as it is a mainsail furler unit. replacing the whole assembly was
not an option.